The Island of Tory; Its History and Antiquities. Part I

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THE ISLAND OF TORT; ITS HISTORY AM) ANTIQUITIES.

By EDMUND G-ETTY, M.K.I.A.

" Usque ColumTbinam insulam quas Thobach dicitnr."

De. Johnson, by a few eloquent words, created an interest in Iona that still
attracts to its shores pilgrims of every class; and awakens a lively curiosity
regarding the history of the personage who founded its remarkable ecclesias-
tical buildings, — our own Golumba. It is not, however, any dispar..
agement to that sacred territory to affirm^ that the Island which
forms the subject of the present article (and which was also one of
'the seats of the Koyal Saint) has an interest not possessed by the
Hebridean ; inasmuch as we fiud in it, at this hour, remains of the
very buildings erected by the early Christian monks, who had there
devoted themselves to a life of holy seclusion. It will be found that this interest
will not be diminished by a careful examination of the remains themselves ; nor
will the poetic fervour of the visitor be cooled down by the " ipse dixit" of
some member of a Ohurch-architectural Society, informing the enthusiast that
"none of these ruins date earlier than the thirteenth century. "■

Saint Columba was one of the most remarkable Christian missionaries of
the post-apostolic ages, not only on account of the number of churches which
he founded, but for the purity of his life and doctrine. He was born at Gar-
tin, in the county of Donegall, about the year 521 ; and, although his descent
from King Niall of the Nine Hostages gave him a high civil rank among his
countrymen, he, from a very early age, devoted himself to the service of reli-
gion. According to Jocelyn and Usher, he founded one hundred monasteries :
and, in one of the lives published by Colgan, Ms entire ecclesiastical foundations,
including monasteries and churches, are estimated at three hundred. A well-

28

defined tradition still existing in Donegall, and likewise the records of the period^ immediately
succeeding his death, have handed down numerous interesting details of his private life, and of his teach-
ing. It is not to be denied that, in the course of ages, many fictitious particulars have "been added by his
admirers ; but, as the lichen on an ancient, monument does not conceal its form, so the judicious in-
quirer has no difficulty in perceiving that this holy man was indefatigable in his exertions to spread
over the land the pure Christianity of the Apostolic ages ; that he was earnest in prayer ; that lie de-
voted much time to the study and transcription of the Holy Scriptures ; and that in his own person,
he gave an illustrious example of practical virtue.

It is difficult to conjecture why, at a time when the Irish had already been converted to Christianity,
he should have determined on establishing a monastery in Tory, a an island so completely cut off, as
it must always have been, from communication with other parts of the country. In lona, which
is a secluded spot of about the same extent, he and his disciples found a comparatively safe retreat
in troubled times, whence they could extend their missionary labours, and to which, as a harbour of
refuge, they could return, when civil strife prevented their progress on the main land. In like man-
ner, we may presume that, dreading some civil convulsion in Ireland which might prove fatal to the
cause of religion, he intended that this almost inaccessible spot should be the means of preserving the
sacred deposit until better times should arrive.

Th e island further deserves attention as having been (even before the ecclesiastical epoch already men-
tioned,) one of the strongholds of that extraordinary people, who, under the general name of Scandina-
vians, ravaged and partially settled the coasts of the British islands; — the same people who afterwards as-
Normans, played an important part in the history of this country: — for the invasion in the time of Henry
II. was only a return of the ancient foe, civilized by the restraints of a settled government, and inclined
to colonize, rather than to plunder, the land they had so often stooped on from their impregnable rock-
fortresses. This is not the fitting place to pursue such an inquiry, further than suggesting that many
of the early invasions, supposed to have been direct from Denmark or Norway, may have been made
from settlements in some of the numerous islands along the coasts of Great Britain and Ireland :-—
for we have, as yet, no proof that the people spoken of by the Bards as "Africans," really came from
the south.

The present communication originated in a visit paid to the island in August 1845, by the writer,
accompanied by Mr. Hyndman and Mr. Grattan of Belfast, with the view of making some excava-
tions at the round tower, by permission of the proprietor, Mr, Woodhouse,

The nearest point, at which a vessel can lie in safety, is Sheephaven ; and here the yacht took the
party on board opposite to the little town of Dunfanaghy, From this the sail to Tory is very beau-
tiful, passing under Horn Head, a bold promontory^ descending abruptly into the sea, from a height

a This name is always pronounced as if written in *> It is composed of mica-slate and quartzose and sand-

Lnglish TonitY. stone.

29

nearly seven 'hundred feet. Large flocks of water-fowl breed in its caverns and continually encircle its
rugged sides, while the sea-eagle soars aloft with its young. The peculiar appearance which gives
name to the head-land is very discernible ; two projecting peaks at the summit assuming the resem-
blance of the short thick horns of an ox.

Another promontory, to the west, presents the
appearance of a human bust, the profile of which
is very perfect, much more so than the one so often
pointed out on the Cave -Hill at Belfast. It bears
some likeness to the portraits of the Duke of "Wel-
J^ lington, and the form of features is well developed.
As the island is approached, the sea assumes the
beautiful ultra-marine blue which we look for in
vain in shallow water. When Tor-more on the east is reached, the cliffs of the island form a beauti-
ful prospect ; while, on the opposite side, the coasts of Donegall and Deny, with their receding head-
lands and mountains, and Innistrahull on the verge of the horizon, altogether form a picture equal to
any on the Irish coast.

Under the most favourable circumstances there is always some difficulty in effecting a landing on
Tory, even with the kind assistance of the inhabitants. On this occasion, they sent off a " curragh"
and a large boat to receive the " new master, 53 (as the landlord was called among them,) and the
shore and head-land were covered with people, as if to welcome the arrival of the visitors. The land-
ing-place is in a small " cove" romantically situated in the shelter of the cliffs, and partially defended
from the waves of the Atlantic by a high pinnacle of rock called Tor-a-hauv, having a narrow pas-
sage between it and the land. This landing-place is called Port-Doon from its proximity to an an-
cient Dun or strong-hold. There is, however, no safe anchorage where a vessel can lie j and there-
fore, it was necessary to send back the yacht to the main land, or, as it is termed in the phraseology
of the islanders, "the country." The present party, after remaining in the island a sufficient time to
effect their objects, returned to Dunfanaghy ; and it may be mentioned, as showing the uncertainty
of the communication with Tory, (even in summer,) that it was not till a considerable time after their
departure that any vessel or boat could approach its shore. Even in Sheephaven the sea was running
fearfully on the bar ; and a smack which passed the yacht, beating up to the island to load kelp, was
wrecked, a few hours after, on Lmisbofinn.

From Ballyness Bay, a boat occasionally goes out to Tory with letters ; passing in its direct course
the three smaller islands of Lmisbofinn, Lanisdooey, (on which is a cemetery,) and Innisbeg. The
principal intercourse with Tory is from this quarter ; the people being under the spiritual direction of
the priest of u Crossroads" for the time being, It is not necessary at present to make any further al-
lusion to these smaller islands. Near Horn Head is a place called Marafagh, where it is the custom
to inter pro temjpore the bodies which are a-bearing to Tory, but detained by stress of weather.

30

Tory lies about nine miles from the nearest part of the coast of Donegall, and is included territori-
ally in the parish of Tullaghobegly, barony of Kilmacrenan. Its length is about three miles, its
"breadth one, Its superficial contents are 1200 acres; 200 of which are considered arable or pasture
land. It contains three lakes, two of them, Lough Ayes and Lough Alioooy of considerable size ;
the other is named Lough A-her. The Commissioners of Lish lights erected a light-house here in
1832, which is of great service to mariners, and has greatly diminished the number of ship-
wrecks, caused by the position of the island in the direct course, vessels entering or departing by the
North Channel, It is visible in clear weather at the distance of 17 nautical miles, the lantern stand-
ing 122 feet above the level of the sea at high- water. Numerous birds are killed by striking against the
■plate-glass windows, being attracted by the light. A very interesting collection of these was made by
Mrs. Bailie, an English lady who resided here for some years, while her husband was in charge. The
specimens were all preserved and set up by herself, and exhibited a proof, if such were required, that
a person of intelligence can never b'e at a loss for useful employment.

Before the erection of the light-house the inhabitants derived considerable profit from acting as
pilots, and also from the timber thrown on shore. — In one place a deep hollow is shewn on the cliffs
communicating with the sea, through which whole logs of timber are occasionally shot up by the violence
of the waves. A gun fired into it produced a very loud report. It resembles the famous cavern near
Horn Head, called MacS wine's gun, through which the water rushes with such violence as to produce a
loud report. It is not uninteresting to add that Mr* Graham, in his account oflcma, describes a
cavern of the same nature there.

The only place on the island where a few shrubs flourish is a hollow formed by the subsidence of the
surface into a cavern. beneath.— -This was named by the party " Hyndman's garden," but its Celtic
designation is Lagrehy or the " ram's-hollow."

There are two . " towns" on the island, ( " villages" perhaps is a more correct egression,) East
Town and West Town; the latter being the principal, and containing *the Kound Tower and the
Ecclesiastical ruins. The building materials are fragments of red granite, and the covering of the
houses is straw, kept down by ropes of the same material and by stones. As limestone is not found
on the island, the mortar, both ancient and modern, has been obtained by burning sea shells, chiefly
those of the limpet ; the animal of which is used in large quantities as food and as bait. To a cursory
observer, the present dwellings have as much appearance of antiquity as the older buildings j audit
is difficult to distinguish ancient from modern walls. In one place artificial caves are shown, said to
have been formed during the war " to conceal the people from the French j" but more probably from
English press-gangs. The most likely suggestion, however, is their use by smugglers before an Excise
steamer put an end to their traffic- At one time, large quantities of whiskey were illicitly distilled
on the island, — the trade is now at an end, and every inhabitant a "teetotaller."

The land is generally held by the old "rundale" tenure,:, by virtue of which, each individual
tenant has a proportion of every kind of land, and no one a permanent possession of a separate part.

31

Improved agriculture, or fencing and ditching, are of course, almost unknown ; tlie land is badly til-
led, and affords scanty crops of oats and potatoes ; — and it is, perhaps, a result of the perfect sim-
plicity of the modes of culture, that the potato disease did not reach this distant island. c The most
profitable business seems the manufacture of kelp from sea-weed; and at the time of the present
visit, the "market" was as much agitated, on its small scale, by the arrival of ^a .few purchasers, as
some of the great marts where the wealth of nations is exchanged. The prosperity of this trade
arises from the large proportion of iodine this kelp produces, which gives it a comparatively high
value. Every one was alive to exertion. Persons of every age and sex were employed collecting
the sea-weed, or carrying it off the beach on the small island horses, in panniers having a moveable
bottom which drops down on removing a pin. Lord Brougham would have been delighted with the
" schoolmaster," for even he was " abroad." d

Mr. Hyndman introduced a new trade, by offering a reward for the eggs and young of the
" Mother Carey's chickens," which he understood bred on the Island, Demand, as usual, in such
cases, produced supply ; and the market which opened at 6d. per egg, soon fell to a very small
fractional part. This gentleman records a story that fully confirms the opinion of Avienus
regarding the Irish, " negociandi eura jugis omnibus;" for wishing to ascertain if the '" fork-tailed
Petrel " was also found, he offered a reward for a specimen. A boy, 10 or 12 years of age, soon
brought htm one, which he had ingeniously manufactured on the instant to agree with hi&: deseription,-
by extracting the middle feathers of the tail of the Mother Carey's chicken, and so claimed the
reward 1 !

Few quadrupeds are found, except the rabbit, which is plentiful : and it is positively stated, that
rats, — the universal plague of man, — will not live here. . * There is no doubt, that the frequency of
wrecks, formerly gave them every facility for making the experiment ;— ~ but this, with other ques-
tions, is better reserved for discussion in notices of natural history. (See Appendix communicated hy
Mr. Jffyndmim.) ;

c Since the above was -written, the propi^ietor has in- but little was produced ; hut since the opening of the

duced a considerable number of the inhabitants to leave works in Ramelton by the enterprising exhibitor, (who

the island, and abolished "Kundale" entirely; and the Was generally considered at the time to be making a

land is now divided into farms, as in other parts of the rather bold experiment,) a large annual consumption of

country. kelp at the ^orks has caused it to be made in much

d The following notice of chemicals produced from greater abundance, and the prices raised to a consider-

Irish Sea-weed, appeared in the Dublin Freeman's Jour- able extent ; causing thereby not only a large cireula-

nal, under date 27th Sept. 1851,— tion of money in that part of Ireland, but conferring

Irish Produce.— I observed in the Great Exhibition a great benefits on the neighbouring coasts by the exten-

case of chemical stuffs produced from Irish sea-weed— sive employment it affords to the poorer classes round

viz. iodine, chloride of potassium, sulphate of potash, the districts; "who, but for this field of commerce having

and alkaline, or kelp salt— manufactured in the Ramel- been opened up almost at their own doors, would, in

ton Chemical Works, by the exhibitor, Mr. John Ward. many cases, be unemployed, and in destitute circum-

These works, the first of the kind started in Ireland, stances. To the town of Ramelton the chemical works

were established by Mr. Ward, in March 1845, in Hamel- have been of the greatest benefit, by the number of

ton, a small town on an arm of Lough Swilly, Co. Donegal. workmen and labourers employed in and around it, and

Previous to their establishment the people of .the north- the very considerable shipping trade, in vessels ranging

west coast of Ireland had comparatively no home mar- from 50 to 120 tons, which the importation of manufac-

ketfor the produce of their industry, in so far as regard- red stuffs has been the means of bringing to Lough

ed the manufacture of kelp from sea-weed, consequently Swilly.

32

There is no flax grown on the island ; but there is pasture for a limited number of sheep. There
is neither resident magistrate nor clergyman, doctor nor lawyer, and it is only very recently that a
schoolmaster made his way thither under the auspices of the National Board. Irish is the universal
language ; and, with the exception of a dwarf called Halliday, and the officials connected with the
light-house, the people belong exclusively to the Roman Catholic Church, A clergyman from
Cross-roads, on the opposite coast of Donegal!, visits them periodically ; or, in a case of urgency, a
" curragh" is sent over to bring him. In his absence, prayers are read on Sundays by one of the
islanders, at what is called "St. John the Baptist's altar," near the Bound Tower; and baptism is ad-
ministered in case of necessity, the water used being contained in an ancient stone vessel, which will
be afterwards more particularly noticed.

It is said that, when occasion requires more than usual deliberation on the part of the people, they
electa "king." The last occasion when this august ceremony took place was for the purpose of
considering whether geese should be allowed to be kept on the island ; as complaints had been made
that they injured the crops. A legislative decree was the result, banishing all geese for the future I

A general notice such as the present would be incomplete without some account of the " Curragh,"
the principal means of communication possessed by the islanders with the main land. The Curragh
is one of the most primitive, and certainly, with parties accustomed to its management, is, from its
buoyancy, one of the safest of boats. The canoe formed from the hollow trunk of a tree may have
preceded its use ; but the raw hide of a newly slain animal, properly extended, presented a readier means
of constructing a boat, and became, to the early inhabitants of the British islands, what the birch-tree
•bark is to the American Indian. In the sculptures from Nineveh, a similar use of the hide is observed
as a means of crossing rivers, but the application is less ingenious ; being merely a skin inflated by air,
like what is called on some parts of the Irish coast a " stookcy." Csesar, Pliny, Claudian, Festus
Avienus, Sidonius, Gildas, all refer to the Curragh; and Dr. O'Connor in his first Prolegomenon
(Berum Hibernicarum Scriptores) has collected numerous references with regard to it—" They are
still used," he says " and are called in Irish Nimhog and Curragh" In these boats, according to Gildas,
the Irish made their irruptions into Britain about the year 431, during the Beign of the Ehnperor Theodo-
sius. The term Curragh (Corrocha in Latin) is possibly derived from the same root with the Latin
word Gorium. The frame- work consists of a gunwale and a quantity of branches for ribs, which are
kept in their places by smaller twigs interwoven. According to the original fashion, a fresh hide with
the hair- inside was drawn over this skeleton, and, being laced with thongs to the gunwale, became rigid
as it contracted in drying. At present, a cheaper material is found in tarred canvass, manufactured
from flax or hemp spun by the women, and which is considered of superior strength to what is purchased
at a warehouse. The same opinion exists respecting fishing-gear ; for the fishermen consider nets, formed
from twine made in their own houses, much more valuable than any other, To render the canvass
secure it is made double, and tarred ; a layer of brown paper being generally inserted between the two
portions of canvass. On the coast of the opposite main land, the curraghs have generally sharp bows

S3

an<i square stems ; fait those of -a moderate size, intended to pass with safety through the long swell of
the Atlantic, are square, or nearly so, at both extremities. An old. cutter's-nian stated that, off the
Shannon, they often pull six oars, and that few boats can come up with them. He agreed in con-
sidering them the safest of all boats in the hands of men accustomed to their management ; during
all his experience in the Sound of Tory, he never knew or heard of one being lost, though they ven-
ture out in all weathers. They are rowed with short oars or paddles, the smaller ones having two
pair, one man pulling a pair : they are what fishermen caE "club-oars." In crossing through a
heavy sea the islanders were observed to impel them in the manner of the Indians; that is, in
place of oars, each man used a paddle without any rest on the gunwale. When two men so circum-
stanced are in one boat, one kneels in the bow, while his partner sits about the centre, both
paddling in the manner described.

Cattle are transported across the Sound in these boats; and they are so light that a man easily
carries one on his back. They then present a rather curious appearance, not unlike a huge beetle ;
and this led to a standing joke against an Entomologist of the present party, who was charged with at-
tempting to stick a pin into one of them and transfer it to his cabinet !

In one of the numerous legends connected with the history of the Irish Saint Brendan or Brandon,
who flourished in the eleventh century, he and his companions are represented as constructing vessels
on the west coast of Ireland, precisely similar to the Curraghof the present day, "in accordance with
the established custom of the country." His, however, had the addition of a mast and sail. Saint
Brendan is the Sinbad of clerical romance ; and so firm a hold on men's minds had the exploits of
this christian Ulysses acquired at one time, that islands, supposed to be discovered by him, became
subjects of treaty; and it is even not improbable that at a later period they may have stimulated a
higher class of navigators to attempt discoveries across the western ocean,

■KOTES.ON ME NATUEAL HISTOBY OF TOBY ISLAND,

BY aEOKGE C, IOTDMAN. AUGUST, 18&

zoology.

JS'Iammalia,

Mus musculus,— the Mouse, common In tlie houses.
(Mus decumanus,™the Rat, is not found on the Island.
The common opinion among the people is that it
will not live there: they state as a fact that a
couple which once came ashore from a vessel were
found dead next morning.)

Lepus euniculus— the Babbit, is common, burrowing
in various places, often close to the cliffs.

Phoca— ? Seals are said to be found about the island, but
it is not known that they breed here.

Whale,— We saw one spouting off Horn Head. It several
times threw a jet of water 6 or 8 feet high in the
air. There was & play of Gulls near, as if the
whale was among a shoal of fish. It was, perhaps,
20 to 26 feet m length.

(Five Whales were taken, 2 or 3 years ago, oiF
Dunfanaghy or mouth of Mulroy Bay.)

BIRDS.

Haligeetus alhicilla,-— the Sea-Eagle. A pair of tins bird
was seen on the island; it is said to be occupied
by a pair every year, but never by more.

A tame one was seen at Dunfanaghy, where
it was allowed to fly about and always returned.
It appeared pleased when notieed by its owner.

Falco peregrinus— the Peregrine Falcon, was not seen
by any of the party, bat is said to breed regularly
on the island. t

Saidcola oenanthe,— the Wheatear, several were seen,
MotaoUla Yarrellii,— the pied Wagtail, one or two seen.
Anthus petrosus,— the rock Pipit, a few seen along the

shore.
Emberiza miiiaris,— -the common Bunting, a few seen,
Passer domesticus — the common Sparrow, several seen

about the Bound Tower and the Houses.
Sturnus vulgaris,™ the Starling, numerous on the island.
Several were seen among the rocks on the edge of
the cliffs, where they were said to resort gene-
rally, except in the breeding season, when they
took possession of the Round Tower, which is sur-
rounded by the cabins of one of the "Towns."
(A young bird of this season was shot by one of the
party.)

Frugilus graculus,— the Chough, was seen in numbers

about the rocks.
Gorvus corax:,— the Raven, its croak was hoard on the

island. It is said that 'one pair and never more

frequent Tory,
orvus oQrnix,— the hooded Grow, seen.

Cuculus canorus,— the Cuckoo, was said to be occasionally
" heard on the island, " once in seven years," anil

its note is considered a good ommi for the crops*
Hirundo : One species was said to breed either

against the cliffs or in the caves. We saw some of

the birds on the wing as wo rowed along the rocky

coast,

1 Columba livia,— the Bock Dove, builds in the caves along
the coast.

, Scolopa,x gallinago,— the common Snipe, is'aaid to coma
to the island in winter, but is not known to breed
there.

Crex pratonsis,— the Corncrake, or Landrail, was heard
by us every day whilst we remained. It is said
to visit the island regularly.

Uria Troile,— the common Guillemot, was seen swimming,
between Tory and Horn Head, one pair with
young ones full grown.

3?ratoroula ai*etiea,-—the Puffin, a few wore seen swim™
Bring between Tory and Horn Head.

Laridse — ■

Several of the Gull Tribe breed here in the sea-
son, but we were too late to sec them in numbers.

Larus marlnus? and argentatus , ?.~~wero'prolmbly the
species seen perched on the isolated pinnacles of
rockj of which there are many on the iNVIS. end of
the island.

Thalassidroma pelagioa,— the Stormy Petrel, called
by sailors Mother Carey's chickens. These birds
breed m numbers in the Rabbit burrows of the
chits on the northern side of tho island, out of
which they were drawn by the boys with their
hands : when so far in that they onuld not be
reached, the entrance was broken down by the
ieet until the birds were within reach. There
seemed to be only a single nest in each burrow.
Ihe season wft£ rather Sir advanced for the eggs to
be found plentiful, but about 6 or 8 were procured,
as also about half a- dozen of young birds, all in the
down, but oi different ages, Fully twenty old
birds were taken and many more could have been
had, but as we had no wish to allow thorn to
be destroyed wantonly, about the half of those
taken were set at liberty. When released from
the topol the cliffs which were 200 to 280 feet high,
they aliQt.off immediately in a straight line down
towards the water, their flight resembling that of
a swallow. The boys who caught the birds seemed
desirous to prevent mo from soeiiur how they took
them, so that I did not get a good opportunity of
seeing if any nest was formed, but I bolieve not,
and that the eggs are laid on the soft dry mould
m the burrows : I observed that the boys put their
ears to the holes while ethers stamped over them,
bjr which they seemed to know if the birds were
within. In the few oases I had mi opportunity

35

of observing I never saw more than one young bird
or one egg taken out of one burrow, but I could
not ascertain if more than one old bird was ever
taken in one nest.

I was surprised to hear, one of the old captives,
when held in the hand, warbling some sweet notes,
which resembled the swallow's twittering, but of a
stronger tone. Several when first taken ejected
food from their stomach, which appeared to be the
remains of fish. I did not observe any of them to
eject oil from their nostrils, as they are said to do,
although I tried to make them do so. The natives
called them by an Irish word which signified Oil
Btrd.

From the circumstance of these birds being
generally seen at night, which is their regular time
for feeding, the people here imagine that they
would be killed by the Gulls, and that this is the
reason of their not being seen by day. One bird
which escaped from me was watched .to see
whether it -would not be attacked by the Gulls
before it reached a place of safety, but nothing
of the kind took place, nor is it likely from the
rapid flight of the Petrel that any Gull could mo-
lest it.

All the birds seen by me were the common Pe-
trel, and I offered ml extra reward for the capture
of a fork-tailed Petrel, (P. Leachii,) nor was it long
till a specimen was brought to me manufactured
on the instant by the middle-tail feathers being
extracted, and the outer ones left, A little fel-
low, perhaps, 10 or 12 years of age, came forward
seriously to claim the reward of one shilling for
this Pork-tail 1

EEPTILES.
None of this tribe, not even the Frog, is found in Tory.

FISHES.

Cottus bubalis,— one taken in the rock pools.

Fagellus centrodontus,— this fish is called the " Brazier"
by the people at Tory and along the coast of Do-
negal adjacent. It is taken in great numbers by
the people who go out to fish in their corraghs
with fishing rods, using the animal of the common
limpet as bait.

Scomber Scomber,— the Mackerel, we caught a single
specimen only on the evening of our return from
the Island.

Bleunius pholis,— common in the rock pools.

Blennius gunnellus,— taken with the last.

Gobiusniger,— taken under stones left dry at low water.

Labrus maculatus.— The Wrasse, or Bavin, two spe-
cimens caught by fishermen, were seen and pur-
chased : one of them was veiw large, spotted and
barred with orange and purple, the other was a"
uniform dark green and small size.

Olupeaharengus or sprattus,— -Herrings or Sprats, (if the
former the young,) are occasionally taken in
great quantities, simply by creels let down from
the cliffs, in which they were said to be drawn up
in hundred-' . I saw their remains scattered about t

on the grass. The people think that they are
driven in thus close to the shore by the large fieh
which prey on them.

The Tory people have nonets nor long lines,
nor any effective apparatus for fishing but their
rude corraghs.

When at Milford, I saw at table, plenty of sprats
(as ascertained by the late W, Thompson. Esq.,
from two specimens I brought home,) which had
been brought from Donegal Bay, where they were
said to be taken in great quantities occasionally ;
they are carted through the country and sold
at a cheap rate.
Gadus Morrhua, G.iEglefinus and Lota molva,— the Cod,
Haddock and Ling, are said to be abundant off
the coast in the season and to be taken by the peo-
ple in them usual way out of the corraghs with
hand lines.
Motella mustela,— five bearded Cod, one specimen taken

in a rock pool.
Lepidogaster cornubiensis. — Cornish Sucker. Of this cu-
rious and beautiful little fish several specimens
were taken under stones left uncovered at low
water.
Syngnathus lumbriciformis,— a few taken under stones at
low water.

MOLLUSCA.

Helix nemoralis,— a single dead specimen only found,but
it may be indigenous. (The species is extremely
common among the Sand-hills on the coast near
Bunfanaghy).

Limax agrestris,— several were seen.

Limneus pereger— several were found in the bog holes,

Littorina littoreus,— found on the rocks,

„ rudis, do.

„ neritoidea, do.

Bissoa parva

„ interrupts.
„ rubra.

Lacuna quadrifasciata.

Phasianella pullus— adhering to a large Holothuria.

Trochus cinereus— on the rocks.
„ umbilicatus, do,

Kassa macula — several found alive among the rocks at
low water.

Purpura lapillus— common on- the rocks,

Cyprtea europsea— one found living among the Tocks at
low water.

Lottia virginea— two specimens found alive on the rocks.

Patella vulgata.— This shell is very abundant,* and of
large size, and is of great importance to the island-
ers. It is taken in quantities by the women, off
the rocks, by means of a flat sharp edged piece of
iron, apparently made for the purpose, and used-
as bait for fish, principally, (at the time of our vi-
sit,) for the Brazier, (Pagollus centrodontus), I
could not learn that it 'is ever eaten by the inha-
bitants.

36

Large piles of the shells were to "be seen before
the doors of the cabins, and the only lime to be
had on the island is procured from the burnt
shells. This seems to have been the case from
remote times, as the mortar of the Round Tower,
and the old churches, and the castle, seems to
hare been formed solely of this material. We also
saw some of the houses that had been recently
whitewashed from the same lime.

Patella pellucida— found on the rocks.

„ laevis, or coerulea— from the root of Lamlnaria.

Chiton clnereus— two specimens on the rocks.

Mytilus edulis, var. incurvatus— was the only bivalve seen
on the island. It was abundant, clustering in the ■
crevices of the rocks, exposed to the sea, as I have
seen on the coast of the Giant's Causeway.

Teredo navalis— seen in several pieces of drift wood, ly-
ing at one of the towns.

Anatifa lcevis— on drift timber with the last.

Balanus punctatus—covering the rocks.

AMORPHOZOA.

CRUSTACEA.

Santho floridus— was abundant under rocks and loose

stones, near low water mark.
Cancer pagurus— the common Crab, was seen very large

and tine.
Homarus vulgarus— the lobster, also very fine.
Portunus puber— several were found of Ml size, under

stones, just changing ( their shells,
Porcellana platycheles— with the last.
Ampliipoda—three species.

Orohestia Httorea ?

Talitruslocusta?

: not ascertained.

Idotea one species, do.

Lygia ooeanica— on the rocks, at the sea side.

Three species,

ANNELIDA.

ECHINODERMATA.

Ophiocoma neglecta — three or four among the sand, un-
der stones.

Asterina gibbosa— several adhering to the under side of
stones.

Echinus sphsera— a few at low water.

lividus— numerous among loose rolled stones

of Granite, at low water mark, (consequently not
burrowing.)

Cucumaria under a large stone at extreme low

water.

A very large species, like the "Nigger."
Syrinx granulosus— two specimens under stones,

ZOOPHYTES.
Actinia inesembryanthemum—plentiful.

(Sponges,) three species,
Halychondria seriata.

LITIIOPHYTA,

(Corallines,) corallina officinalis—common,

Nullipora polvmorpha,— a singular variety was found,

encrusting the rocks, and sometimes covering the

clusters of Mussels.

INSECTS.

The common white Butterfly and the small cop-
er, were seen in the Hollow (Legaroighy) : a large
"oth was also seen flying about in the evening.

The common Earwig and a few Coleoptera were
all that time permitted to observe.

List of Birds killed against the Light House, and pre-
served by Mrs. Bailey.

House Martin— A Bird of this species was found in Bee.
1844. "Its body was muoh wasted as if it had
been long without food."

Tringa variabilis,

Fieldfare ?

Redwing ?

"Wigeon— This Bird struck the copper dome, above the
light, with such force that the sound was mistaken
for that of a cannon shot fired by some vessel as
a signal of distress, so that the Light House keep-
er actually went out to ascertain if such way the
case. The Bird was found killed the next morn-
ing.

Puffin,

Oyster catcher,

Ring Dotterel.

Wood cook.

Land Rail.

Stormy Petrel— The fork-tailed Petrel had never been
seen by Mrs, Bailey.

(Two sorts of West Indian seeds were in Mrs.
Bailey's collection found on the shore.)

BOTANY.

List of Plants found on Tory Island ;*

40 Phamogamia— Two Perns.
Ranunculus flammula.
Crambe maritima, ■
Polygala vulgaris.
Silene maritima.
Spergula arvensis.
Sagina procumbens.
Arenaria rubra.
Sedum anglioum.

37

Peplis portula— in a boggy swamp by the road side.
Lotus corniculatus.
Potentilla anserina.
Tormentilla officinalis.

* Bosa spinossissima, — almost herbaceous, and I saw

only two little specimens, which I abstained from
pulling, lest I might deprive the island of its
last rose.

* Angelica sylvestris

* Crithmum maritimum— (samphire) on the cliffs, at the

west end of the island. Brought to me by a man
who said he had to be let down by^ a xope to
reach the plant. I did not see it growing.

* Lonicera periclymenum (Honeysuckle.)

* Hedera Helix (Ivy.)

A single plant of Ivy was found climbing a lit-
tle detached pinnacle of rock on the precipitous
side of a curious deep Hollow (called by the na-
tives Lag-a-reithe, (pronounced Lagareighy) the
Kam's Hollow. This seemed to have been origin-
ally a large cave, Communicating by an arched
passage with the sea, the roof of which had after •
wards fallen in. The passage to the sea still
remainedj but blocked up by loose stones.
The Plants marked * were only found in this place.
Jasione montana.

* Solidago virgaurea.

Bellis perennis (the Daisy, "blossoms everywhere."}

Carduus one species of the Thistle seen.

Apargia — (species seen by Dr. Harvey, but could

not be determined from the badness of the speci-
men I had.)

Plantago maritima.
Statice armeria.
Calluna vulgaris. -
Erica tetralis,

* — - cinerea.
Erythrsea centarium,

Gentiana campestris.
Anagallis arvensis.

tenella— very abundant on the damp soil,

flowering profusely.
Euphrasia omcinalis.

* Thymus serpyllum.

* Runiex acetosella.
Atriplex patula.
Salix fusca, v* argentea,

* Juniperus communis.
Juncus bufonius.

Two Grasses. Agrostis canina.
Holous lanatus.
Asplenium marinum.
Athyrium filis f emina.

ALGbE, (Seaweeds.)

f Pucua vesiculosa,

f nodosus

f Himanthalia lorea.

j* Laminaria digitata.

Khodomenia laciniata,

Plocamium coccineum,

PtSota plumosa.

Conferva rupestris.

Codium tomentosum,

— -adherens? (examined by Dr. Harvey, and con-
sidered by him to be this species.)

f These are used in making Kelp, The manufacture
of which has been latterly revived, on account of
the quantity of Iodine which can be extracted
from it. This substance is now used in the arts
in dying some particular color, as well as in me-
dicine. The Tory Island Kelp is found to be of
very good quality, owing to the large Algge being
principally used in making it.